Soft, strong and neglected for too long
(Filed: 18/09/2004)

Lamb shops
Ideas and inspiration

Light lamb is a forgotten autumn treat, says Rose Prince

It could be described as the hidden harvest of the autumn. Light lambs, the small mountain breeds that inhabit the hills of Scotland, Wales and the moors and fells of England, have traditionally been export meat - disappearing abroad as if they never existed.

Not so cuddly: Greek and Spanish chefs love the powerful flavour of British autumn lamb

The cold of the hills allows these smaller sized sheep to grow slowly in summer, ready for the butcher in the autumn. These are the ancient breeds; the Scottish Blackface and Cheviot, the Welsh Mountain, the Cumbrian Swaledale and Herdwick and the occasional Whiteface Dartmoor or Derbyshire Gritstone.

Compared with lowland spring lamb, light lamb has a powerful taste redolent of the wild grass the sheep feed on. While British consumers have indulged in the pale, delicate meat of lowland lamb, light lamb has become the chosen meat of Greek and Spanish cooks who serve it in pungent dishes flavoured with garlic and herbs.

Now, public disapproval of live animal exports has encouraged British farmers to try to sell light lamb to the domestic market this autumn.

By happy coincidence, our fondness for Mediterranean recipes and a revival of interest in mutton have added to the appeal and many farmers have formed co-operatives to reach a wider market.

Lamb shops

Fornside Farm
Robert and Pam Hall rear Herdwick sheep, the traditional hefting breed from the Lake District. Lambs have blue/grey wool and instinctively remain in the same part of the fell, unfenced. Sweet, very full- flavoured meat.
Half butchered lamb, about 7.5kg, £45.
Tel: 017687 79173; www.fornside.co.uk/.

Ideas and inspiration

Light lamb has a wonderfully intense flavour and you can bombard it with herbs, spices and the sweet acidity of lemon, quince and tomatoes. Look for lamb recipes in Mediterranean, North African and Asian cookery books - it is never a sin to curry this lamb because its taste will still come through.

• Marinate the cuts in yogurt and toasted ground cumin seeds, then grill or roast. Eat with flat breads, fresh mint and parsley and tahini spiced with garlic.
• Simmer diced lamb shoulder in coconut milk, turmeric and curry spices, then eat with braised chickpeas and a chutney made from fresh mangoes and nigella seeds.
• Trim the fat from lamb chops, braise on the bone with chopped and grated onion, parsley, lots of black pepper and a teaspoon of ginger. Add prunes before serving with couscous or bulgur wheat.
• Saute minced lamb with onion over a high heat and serve with hummus and bread.
• Roast a leg slowly with white wine and the juice of a lemon for around 90 mins, add quartered, unpeeled quinces and cook for a further 30 mins.